A complete guide to Mera peak 6,476m

Mera peak is one of the attractive mountains among the highest trekking peak in Nepal and located in the Mahalangur section, Barun sub-section of the Himalaya. The Mera peak itself an exceptional 6000m peak, which is frequently climbed by many active climbers that can be climbed without previous mountaineering experience. The summit of Mera peak was first climbed in May 20, 1953, by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing (who was known by the nickname The Foreign Sportsman).

If you want to climb Mera peak (6,476m) in Nepal, join us for 2022 Expedition to climb Mera peak in spring and autumn.  8000 Expeditions, offers you 18 days Mera peak climbing Kathmandu to Kathmandu with cost-effective service as well as best service for the expeditions. This trip will be led by 8000 Expedition 12 times Everest summiteers.

Every autumn and spring season, Mera peak climbed by many climbers due to safe climbing routes and a perfect choice to develop the skills and confidence for future mountaineering experience as well as all climbers recommended to partake in preparative fitness and altitude training before attempting an ascent. These reasons Mera peak has become very popular among the climbers in recent year. 

Journey to Mera peak

The journey to the Mera peak is a fantastic trek in the sense of Himalayan experience. 

On this expedition, we will start with a short scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and then we will do the trek from south down through the heartland of the Sherpa village and beautiful local trails.  Although, before the Mera peak summit, we spend 2 nights for acclimatizing and training preparation in the Khare village ( last tea house village) at the altitude of 4,910m. From here, the summit of Mera Peak is visible, which gives exciting motivation, at Khare, our guide teaches you the necessary technical training for the Mera peak summit. After 2 nights spend in Khare village next day, we will ascend continue up Mera peak high camp 5,800m. The high camp is small; it is located hidden behind a rocky section at 5800m. Before the summit bit start, we will spend a night at high camp, which is altitude equivalent to the summit of Kilimanjaro.

The route between Khare to high is straightforward ascent and sometimes need to cross small crevasses while moving high camp. Also, the base camp is located on the rocky place, most of the climbers skip to overnight at base camp after proper acclimatize and preparation while on the trek. Above base camp, climbers need to put crampons, harnesses and ice axes to the summit. It takes 2-3 hour to high camp from base camp. While ascending the high camp, we can see views of Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, Lhotse and many more mountain views behind of us.

Summit day

On the summit day, we will leave from high camp early morning between 1:30 am to 2:30 am to the summit. The climb between high camp to the summit is a straightforward ascent with the moderate snow slope. The climbing routes are less technical than island peak. While climbing to the summit, we will walk with limited three to four clients with our active climbing Sherpa. To reach the peak, the biggest hurdle is the steep slope so it is very difficult and you should have processed slowly to success. If all team physical going well can reach the summit around 7 to 8 am. From the summit you’ll be rewarded with an unbeatable 360-degree panorama of spectacular 8,000m peaks, including Everest (8848m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8481m), Cho Oyu (8201m) as well as many other Himalayan peaks. After the summit, we will descend back to high camp. It takes 2-3 hours from the summit with its own pace. Upon arriving in high camp we will have soup and tea with lunch also will rest for one hour before descending back down to Khare. From next day, walk  back to Lukla via Kothe and Zatr-la pass, this trek can be a favorite and amazing journey for the team.

What experience needs for Mera peak?

Climbing Mera peak is one of the challenges for a novice climber, which can be scaled without prior experience. At 8000 Expeditions, we believe ideal acclimatization, physical fitness and basic mountaineering skills (use of ice axes and crampons) with local guide supports are the key factors to success. Thus, trekkers should have ability to carry 5-10 kilos their own small bag. Also, on the summit day, you’ll be led by an Everest summiteer guide and optimum Sherpa to client ratio of 1:3. 

When is the best time to climb Mera Peak? 

In terms of weather, both season’s spring and autumn are indeed the best time to climb Mera peak. Every season, more than three hundred mountaineers can stand the top of Mera peak. 

As per Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa of 8000 Expeditions said, “i have made and both spring and autumn ascents of Mera peak. I have led more than 25 times successfully Mera peak with different international climbers. Till the climbing, the route is technically not difficult. This doesn’t mean there is no risk at all. Climbers need basic mountaineering skills to success, including team have to be very cautious about unpredictable weather conditions as well as probability of frostbite because of extreme cold in the mountain”.

Beside, for preliminary preparation, most of the climbers prefer to climb island peak (6,189m) to develop climbing skills and confidence for future mountaineering objectives or Amadablam and Everest so on. However, if anyone wants to climb over 7000m peaks then Mera peak would be the best choice.

Which is the trek route is best for Mera peak?  And how long does it take?

There are several possible approach routes to do Mera peak. Climbers can choose as per your experiences. 

Option 1: After flying to Lukla, we will trek via Zatra La pass (4,120m) and up the beautiful Hinku Valley and return the same way, which is an also shorter route to begin Mera peak. It takes 14 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu including acclimatization and spare summit day doe the summit bit. Also, if you have already done high altitude trek (Everest Base Camp, Kilimanjaro) then these route can be suitable for you to make ascent of Mera peak.

Option 2: After flying to Lukla, we will trek via Poyan (2,800m), Pang Goma (2,880m), Ngimso (2,610m) and Forest Camp (3,380m) up the beautiful Hinku Valley. This entire route goes through the local Sherpa villages, forests, rhododendron forest and Bamboo. If trekkers don’t have previous high altitude trek experience, then these routes can be the perfect choice which gives more time to acclimatize to the extreme altitude.  It will take 20 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu including acclimatization and spare day for the summit bit.

Alternatively, there is another popular route, which is going via Nanjing Dingman (2,650m), Chalem Kharka (3,450m) and Panch Pokhari (4,120m) to get the Hinku Valley. This route departs from Sibuje village, where the other route goes to Ngimso (2,610m) and forest camp.